Pyramids and Camel Rides

Last weekend I had the amazing opportunity to go to the ancient pyramids a fwe hours outside of the city. A friend set up the trip for a bunch of us and after getting our travel permissions (because we're not allowed out of the city without it) a big group of us left early Friday morning. It took us awhile to get there. Mostly because we were stopped at 3 checkpoints to have our travel permissions checked...and were stopped at each point for 30-40 minutes. But we finally made it there. Not without getting stuck in the sand first, though. A few of us were dead set on getting to ride a camel, which was no problem at all as a bunch of men with camels were more than happy to have us ride their camels. We probably paid too much (about $3.50 each), but that was certainly worth a camel ride to me.

It was pretty cool. But my camel guy decided that I wanted my camel to run. That was less fun. Basically you end up thunking up and down...I have no idea how they make those long treks across the desert.

The pyramids were cool. The guy who wrote pretty much the only guidebook you can get on Sudan was clearly less than impressed with them. If I recall correctly he described them as having "more archeological significance than visual appeal." Also said that they looked like a row of broken teeth from the road. He was right about that, though.

These pyramids are the tombs from the kings and queens from the ancient kingdom of Cush. Some treasure seeking Italian came along in the 1800's and chopped tops off of all of them looking for gold. Anyway, after playing at the pyramids and probably having more fun climbing and then running down the sand dunes than anything else (clearly, we're very mature adults), those who weren't camping for the night headed back to Khartoum. There was a group of 7 of us camping out fot the night. We drove a little ways to see the ancient royal city. It was little more than some piles of rocks and some headless lion statues. Thankfully they didn't charge us for going in there. It was a bit of a let down. We got some dinner (lentils, fuul (made from dried fava beans), eggs, and bread) then headed back in the dark to find the pyramids and make camp.

We got a little lost driving around the desert, but eventually found a place. Climbed up a very, very steep sand dune and made camp. The sky was probably the most amazing night sky I have ever seen. I didn't even bother trying to capture it on film because it wouldn't have done it any justice. You could see the milky way, all kinds of constellations, and while we sat around in the dark talking we saw at least 4 shooting starts. It was absolutely brilliant.

The sand was nice and soft and I didn't expect a great nights sleep...but I didn't expect the sand storm that ensued all night either. I don't think any of us got much sleep at all. I'm glad I had a sheet to cover my head, but all of us woke up with sand all over everything and in every orifice. It's been 2 days and I'm still trying to rid my hair, ears, and stuff of sand. But I literally sat up in the morning and saw the pyramids. Got to watch the sun come up over the dunes. It was awesome.

I will say that being a girl camping in a barren desert make it difficult to find a place to relieve yourself. Between camping with one other girl and five guys, and men on camels here and there and having little to no place for cover...it was interesting. But I love a little adventure. :)

After getting some incredibly strong Sudanese coffee we off roaded into the desert for a couple of hours to find some ancient temples. We found 4 sites. All less than impressive, really. But still cool. One of the little ancient temples was being used to house a ton of onions for drying. It was kind of amazing to walk in places that thousands of years ago, before even the birth of Christianity, were ruling kingdoms and central places and hubs of trade and slavery that are now reduced to little more than dying piles of rocks. And the history of these places are mostly unknown. Its so strange. Our lives really are but breath.

We had fun bumping around the desert and seeing grazing camels, the occasional stick house, and people from time to time. The people we did see we usually stopped to say hi. We'd give them some cookies or dates or something. Many asked us for headache tablets. We asked to pray with some of those people who were sick. We did come across a well. They had two donkeys hooked to a pulley and the donkeys would walk back and forth and back and forth bringing up goatskin after goatsking of water from this very deep well. It was so cool. And crazy to see people who's lives are so incredibly different.

It was so nice to finally see outside of Khartoum after almost 9 months here. And to get to just relax and hang out with friends. It was wonderful!

My Ears are Normal Again

Last week I was pretty sick. Some sort of kidney infection coupled with crazy congestion and coughing. And some weird symptoms like not sweating for over a day and my ears turning bright red and swelling up a lot. But I seem to be mostly better now and I'm pretty happy about that. Yet again I feel indebted to those around me--the doctor lady I know who consulted me via phone, a friend who went to a couple of pharmacies to find the right medicine, and my roommate who, among other things, would check on me periodically throughout the day to make sure I was still alive. It's been the first time in over 6 months that I've been really sick, so it was nice to enjoy that long period of wellness while it lasted!

I have to say that the timing was pretty good, too. I have a few exciting things coming up soon and I'm happy this little bout didn't interfere. Likeeee on Friday a bunch of us are going to the pyramids! Yay! I have been in Sudan for almost 9 months now and have yet to make it out of the city. Part of this is because some plans have fallen through, and it is also difficult to go anywhere without a car. Did I mention you have to go get travel permission from the government to go anywhere? Anywhere. Yeah, going to get that today but hopefully no problems with that.

I'm so excited to get out of the city! A big group of us young kids (aka the singles) are going and it should be a lot of fun. Plus the weather is starting to cool off ever so slightly. The mornings are absolutely beautiful, but it still heats up uncomfortably by the afternoon. But is much less oppressive than the last, oh, 7 months have been. This coming Sunday is the first day since probably mid-March that the high temperature predicted is under 100 degrees. I'm very excited for winter in Sudan! Life is good.

Tears

The last few weeks I have had days where I just feel like I could cry. No reason really. I haven't really cried at all since I've been in Sudan with the exception of a few tears here and there. Which is surprising because generally tears come pretty easily for me. So I've been sort of waiting for flood gates to open at some point. That hasn't happened yet. But tears are starting to spring here and there. And for seemingly no reason. I mean, I really can only functionally deal with one day at a time here. (Seriously, if someone asks me about something a week away my mind can't even go there.) But mostly I go through my day feeling pretty peachy. Well...sweaty, but peachy.

My roomie and I were chatting about it and I think that this--this living and functioning and trying to be purposeful in a very hard place to live, takes more out of us than we think. The stress is minute mostly so when you start to feel it it comes from surprising places. I won't go into all of the stressors in a day, just suffice to say that there are a lot, a lot of them. Just like anyone anywhere. So why last week when a car honked at me to move out of the way as I was waiting for a bus, why did that particular incident make me want to well up in tears? And not...I dunno the zillion other things in a day? Like the power going out when I'm in the middle of something or the khumsari being rude to me on the bus or finding my way back home at night in the dark or spilling paint all over myself and the boys not listening to the lesson or feeling stupid in language class? Or when our house was on fire??

Don't worry, I'm not cracking at the seams or anything. It's a part of culture shock I was anticipating. I dunno. Life here is hard and I know that. People around do a lot to make it better. I'm missing home. Not in an "I'm ready to go home!" way. More like an I-could-use-a-vacation-there sort of way. We've all had moments where life just feels like too much. And we all know that this too shall pass.

"When there are simple, straightforward jobs to be done, and you are full of sadness, and tears are flowing easily, go ahead and do the jobs with tears. Be realistic. Say to your tears: ‘Tears, I feel you. You make me want to quit life. But there is a field to be sown (dishes to be washed, car to be fixed, sermon to be written). I know you will wet my face several times today, but I have work to do and you will just have to go with me. I intend to take the bag of seeds and sow. If you come along then you will just have to wet the rows." John Piper

But God is good. He's big and great and walks beside me all the day long. He loves me and laughs with me and constantly reminds me of his sovereignty and graciousness. He is always enough. And when I meditate on these things that makes me want to cry, too.

"How I love calling your name
Sweet, sweet Jesus
Lily of the valley
Jesus
Everyday
Everyday, your name is the same"
-From a song we sing at church

"Do you see what this means--all these pioneers who blazed the way, all these veterans cheering us on? It means we'd better get on with it! Strip down, start running-and never quit! No extra spiritual fat, no parasitic sins, keep your eyes on Jesus, who both began and finished this race we're in. Study how he did it because he never lost sight of where he was headed--that exhilerating finish in and with God. He could put up with anything along the way: cross, shame, whatever. And now he's there, in the place of honor, right alongside God. When you find yourselves flagging in your faith, go over that story again, item by item, that long litany of hostility he plowed through. That will shoot adrenaline into your souls!"
Hebrews 12:1-3

Awkward and Excellent

Lots of amusing things have been happening lately. Some excellent. Some awkward. Both worth sharing.

Excellent Things:

My friend, Leah, who was here the first 3 months I was sent me a package and in there she put a bag of those sour patch watermelons. Though they go against everything I believe about eating nonprocessed food...I still like them. I decided to take them to the younger boys center to share. Thus getting to enjoy them, not eat the whole bag myself, and getting to share something with these little boys that I'm just smitten with. I wasn't sure how they would fare because they don't have sour stuff here. With the exception of one of the teachers they all seemed to like them. One of the boys kept asking me how much they were and where he could get some and if they sold them at the ducaan here. I'm a big fan of one of the staff, Zeke. He's one of those people that is always genuinely happy to see you and is great with the boys and just has a sweet lighthearted personality. He was really excited to try this American candy. He tried it and then said "Long live America!" Which is particuarly amusing because he doesn't have a whole lot of English. Then he asked for one to take home to his wife and I gave him some for his kids as well and he tucked them into a piece of paper and put it it his pocket. It was precious.

It is not uncommon for the new boys to not know how to read and write. Mostly with the younger boys, but some of the older ones too. One of the older boys has been at the center now for about 6 weeks. He's about 15. He doesn't know how to write his name. On the first day that I was doing the art lesson he refused to even pick up the pencil for the first half hour. I told him all he had to draw was one line and that would suffice. Eventually, finally, that day he drew some very basic shapes and things just to get me off his case I think. Every week he has been trying a bit more and a bit more. The last few weeks when he gives me his paper he always seems genuinely pleased and relieved when I tell him he's done good work. He always smiles and seems pleased with himself. As he should! It's always exciting to see people grow and improve and try new things.

On a similar note, the last few weeks I have been giving the director of the older boys center computer lessons. It started kind of impromptu. Someone gave him an old laptop. It still works pretty well, just looks a little worse for the wear. It started with him asking me how to turn off the password feature and change a few settings. Now we are up to making a table in a Word doc. It's fun. There is so much I take for granted that I grew up learning how to do.

One of the girls that I befriended while the drop in center was going on came by one day this week. She's like 13 with a 2 year old son. Some 20something boyfriend who lives on the streets as well and is currently in prison. I was so happy to see her. We chatted and ate together. She's just a kid, really. Love that I'm friends with her. That's a first step. Hoping to build that relationship more. Would love to see her and her little boy off of the streets.

Awkward Things (AKA Probably not as important stuff, but amusing all the same):

Climbing out of the front of the bus and getting my shoe caught in the bottom of my dress. Pulling on my dress to get my foot out because the only other option is toppling over the people between me and the door. Getting my foot out but accidently flashing too much leg to a bus full of conservative Sudanese men. Goooood job, Beth.

Two of the married male teachers told me yesterday that at the prayer meeting the group prayed that I would find a husband in Sudan. I got embarrased. My face went red. Spent 5 minutes trying to explain what embarrased meant because in Arabic it is the same word they use for confused. This is not the first time that they have shared their concern that I get married and their confusion as to why I'm not already.

This was topped, however, the very next day when I was at my language helpers house. She ended up not being there (long story) and there were at least 40 members of her extended family there who are in town for an upcoming wedding. Ended up sitting next to some 80something year old relaive who was nearly impossible to understand for 2.5 hours. This lady could not believe I wasn't married and literally pointed to one of the youngerish male relatives who walked by and said  in all seriousness "What about him?" What do you even say to that? Awkward. Apparently weddings are even worse for that. So I'm preeetty stoaked to go to this wedding by myself tomorrow with 900 other people and no other foreigners. Oh boy.

I don't know if it's awkward exactly, but it sure is entertaining. During the repairs and repainting following the fire our landlord basically made the calls about replacement decor. Let me just say that the Sudanese asthetic and my own are not one in the same. They are big fans of gaudy. Suffice to say that now all of our repainted walls (living room, guest room, kitchen, bathrooms) are in two shades of peachy orange. Our new overhead ceiling fans have many gold accents. Our new lights have gold accents. Our light fixtures on the wall are incased lightbulbs with gold leaves and stems with the light as the flower. Tackalicious. Our landlord was so excited to show us all of this stuff he picked out though. I was good at acting like I loved it too. Oh well. Just happy that my room didn't need any renovations, too!

Kindness and Ramblings

I'm out and about by myself for the better part of each day and I have to say that I generally feel pretty well looked out for by strangers around. The Sudanese totally live up to their reputation of being a friendly people. I feel comfortable asking questions of strangers (always a woman, though) and it is not unusual for the person to go above and beyond in helping me.

Like the time the bus I was on got in an accident. We all got off, I didn't know which other bus to flag down (because I had gotten on at the station), and I wasn't sure how else to get to the station. I chatted with two ladies and made sure I got where I was going and paid for me on both buses getting there.

Twice I've had sweet older ladies step in on my behalf on a situation on the bus. Just the other day I was sitting in the front aisle seat and it was a busy time of day, so the bus was full and some men were standing. One guy was standing with his arm on a seat for balance and his elbow was literally like an inch from my face. If we'd hit a bump or something I would have been elbowed in the eye for sure. This sweet lady nicely said something to him and he adjusted to I didn't get clocked in the noggin. Another time some teenager boys were getting on the bus and one kid was holding some stick/toy thing and it thwaked me on the head as he was getting on. I didn't say anything because it was an accident and he was oblivious but she made him apologize to me.

A couple of times people have offered their seats to me on the bus so that I won't be sitting in the sun. (I think some think that us khawajas will melt!)

At the bus station there are a lot of beggars and many are kids. Frequently young girls will latch onto my arm and start begging for money and won't let go. I will gently put my hand on their shoulder and explain that I don't give money to kids and will give some candy, peanuts, or dates if I have some in my bag. Usually this is enough to dissuade them, but sometimes it's not and they won't let go of their grip on my arm. More than once a wellmeaning man will say something to the girls and they'll let go. I hate doing it, I hate that I can't do more for the kids in the moment, and I'm sure that what the person says isn't exactly sweet. But...I dunno. I am thankful for the help. It does break my heart to have to look past many beggars. And to see little kids sitting on cardboard begging. Esspecially alone. Girls as young as 3 walking from person to person to try to get money. Growing up thinking that is typical of life. It just hits me sometimes and I've found myself blinking back tears as I walk through masses of people to my bus at the station. There is so much more to life. It's a tragedy.

Sorry. Where was I?

The kindness of strangers. Yes.

Though life here is tough the loveliness of the people definately offset that.

I love, love how happy people are to see each other. Always warmly greeting each other. It's nice for someone that you see multiple times a week to see you, smile, and greet you warmly. Whenever I get to once of the centre's, esspecially the younger boys, when I come in there are usually a few voices that say "Ohhh! Bess." (Because in Sudanese spoken Arabic they pronounce the "th" sound like "ss," so here I am Bess). It's still funny to me how some of the staff seem surprised and enthusiastic to see me though I see them multiple times a week. I love it!

The other night I was chatting to a lady next to me on the bus (in Arabic, of course, because my Arabic really is improving! Yes!) and when she asked where I was from I said the US, then said that I love Sudan. Because of possible rocky political situations, when people ask me where I'm from I usually follow my answer with, "but I love Sudan." We chatted for a while longer then later she sort of shook her head and said to herself "An American that loves Sudan," in a kind of amazement. That was cool for me. It's not the first time I've gotten that sentiment. Many people don't understand why an American would in the first place be in Sudan, but esspecially actually like it. When I was on the plane coming back from Kenya this summer I was chatting with an Ethiopian guy who travels here a lot back and forth for business and he said to me, "You're an American. You could be anywhere. Why are you in Sudan? It is not beautiful and it is so hot! Why would you choose to live in Sudan??"

Though this isn't exactly the area of Africa I always pictured myself to be, this is where the Lord opened the door. I think it's a lot easier to cope with anything when you feel like you are where you are supposed to be. And I do. I'd be lying if I said life was easy here. It is actually a lot harder in almost every way. (Esspecially when burglaries and housefires are thrown into the mix!;) ) But God gives strength enough for each day and walks beside with every step.

...Even in the infrequent moments when the kindess of people is not as apparent. Like the other morning when I was running. I go just as the sun is coming up, when not many people are out. But because not many people are out it means that many of the stray dogs are out. And someeeeetimes they bark/snarl/chase/scare me. (By sometimes I mean usually once every morning). One of the first times two dogs were chasing/snarling/barking/scaring me I picked up a rock, pretended to throw it, the dogs backed off, I ran a few feet, they started again, I pretended again and so on. This continued for at least a block and two men just stood there watching this unfold without helping me. I'm sure I was a sight to behold and an entertaining story for them to share with their friends later...but they still could have helped! (PS I now always run with a stone in hand).

With that, a concluding statement to tie up this rambling of a post. Um...if it wasn't for the kindness of the people the rest of life in Sudan would be much, much harder to cope with. And I have stuff to smile about every day. And that's awesome.

Hafla Iskreem

Translation: Ice cream party.

Oh yes we did.

A couple of months ago some lovely friends of mine took it upon themselves to have a big yardsale/bakesale/art show for my benefit. They worked really hard and raised some money for me and the cute boys I work with. They suggested I consider using some of the money to fund a little ice cream party for them.

Ice cream? Yes please. Best idea ever.

We decided not to hold it right away--school was just starting, more new boys were coming to the center every week, and the schedule wasn't exactly set. (Then again...it never really is.)

Anyway, so on the 17th I turned 25. The 16th was my roommates 2 year Sudanniversary. Having ice cream with the boys seemed like a beautiful way to celebrate.

We didn't tell the boys and staff that's what it was for. We just said it was a gift to them.

Ice cream in Sudan is extremely time sensitive. Planning the logistics was the biggest thing. Near the center there is no where to buy the ice cream. We also needed a car. So we bought the ice cream the week before after we borrowed a car and made a special trip to the store to get it and we put it in our freezer for safekeeping. Then, of course, was the housefire so we moved the cartons of ice cream to a friends deep freeze. Since we already had the ice cream, when Saturday came we decided to go ahead with the festivities like we'd planned. We got the car, brought along the plastic spoons and toppings, and raced over the bridge.

We got there near the end of the boys rest time. Which meant that some of them were still in a very deep sleep and we had to wake them up. It was that or wait a bit and give them soup instead of ice cream. So we woke them up, scooped out the ice cream, topped it with wafer cookies and salawa (a sweetened sesame seed paste that people here just love) and gave it to them in big bowls in small groups.

It was my assumption that they would just dive right in. This was not the case.
Some of them were a liiiiittle skeptical.

And some were still half asleep.

These boys don't get ice cream, well, ever really. And for a few of the new boys I'm almost sure this was their first taste of the amazing stuff.

So they started nibbling at it slowly.

But before long they were totally digging it.

By the end they were pretty entusiastic about it.

The teachers enjoyed it, as it was a treat for them as well.

It was a fun afternoon and joy to be able to see kids have their first taste of ice cream! The next week a few of them asked me when there would be ice cream again. Kids!

I don't blame them though. I often think about the next time I will get to eat ice cream, too.

So thank you to those friends who made this shindig possible and to the rest of my family, friends, and supporters who make every other day here possible for me!

I can't think of a better way to have spent my birthday in Sudan!

Tummies

On any given afternoon at the younger boys center about half of the boys will be walking around topless. I feel like this is typical of 6-11 year old boys. Plus the afternoon is usually washing time. And rest time. And I am sure I have mentioned before that it is, you know, pretty stinkin hot here. Always.

When we get new boys they are usually really skinny. They mostly stay pretty slim. But most of them you can pretty much see every muscle in their stomachs when they get to us. Today some of the boys who have been there for a few weeks were sitting down and grabbing small (small!) rolls of their now ever so slightly rounded and smoothed out tummies and saying how before there were lines in their bellies. (Meaning you could see all of their ab muscles).

I thought it was just the most precious thing. That's right boys--you're more than skin and bones now!